Varasova

Die vergessene Kletterperle Griechenlands

In mid-June, I visited the climbing spot of Varasova, a place that has remained slightly underappreciated within the Greek climbing scene. Despite its high-quality limestone walls and impressive multipitch routes, many international climbers visiting Greece have never set foot there.

During this trip, I spent time with some of the locals, who expressed a strong desire to see the area promoted more widely. Varasova has the potential to be a true climbing destination—not only because of the rock quality but also due to its unique setting right above the sea.

One of the highlights of my visit was spending a day with Paul (Brunner), a Swiss mountain guide who returns to Varasova every year for extended periods. Over the years, and entirely at his own expense, he has bolted several new routes to support the continued development of the area.

We woke up at 5:30 a.m. to catch the shade, and although the sun eventually reached us, the sea breeze kept the conditions surprisingly pleasant. Our goal was to climb a new multipitch line he recently opened, evaluate its difficulty, and add some extra bolts where needed. The climb was engaging, with varied terrain and sustained sections that required full focus.

For those unfamiliar with Varasova, here are a few key things to know:

🧗‍♂️ Climbing style: Mostly multipitch routes on solid limestone. Expect technical face climbing, cracks, and some adventurous sections.

🧱 Rock quality: Compact grey and orange limestone, often sharp and featured, with good friction.

🧭 Best season: Spring and autumn offer the best conditions. Early mornings can work in the summer thanks to the breeze, but shade management is key.

📏 Route length: Many multipitches range from 200 to 350 meters. The climbing is often sustained, with a mix of bolted and traditional protection.

🌊 Setting: The crag rises directly above the sea, offering stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere. It’s an ideal place for climbers who enjoy solitude and raw nature.

🛶 Access: The approach is easy, and some sectors are accessible directly from the sea via kayak or boat.

🏕 Camping: There are options for camping nearby, and the area maintains a relaxed, low-key vibe.

Varasova might not yet be on every climber’s radar—but it truly deserves to be. With local support and the dedication of people like Paul, this hidden gem has everything it takes to become a classic. Extra actions that would help even more this place is a new guidebook and some more easy grade sport multipitches for everyone but we are already working on that !!!

So If you’re looking for adventure, quiet cliffs, and world-class rock—add Varasova to your list.

Herzlichen Dank an Paul Brunner für die Infos und Fotos von diesem schönen Kletttergebiet in Griechenland.